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Food Links, 31.12.2014

  • ‘millions of the poorest Britons are struggling to get sufficient calories to maintain their body weight for the first time since the Second World War’.
  • Using cellphone data to track food consumption.
  • Rising temperatures are changing the fish available in Britain’s waters.
  • Food stamps are big business.
  • China’s flying pig market.
  • Survivor stock bees.
  • The politics of drinking water.
  • A hospital in France opens a wine bar.
  • Thai hospital food.
  • The London gentrification pub crawl.
  • Concept restaurants do not foster sustainable cities.
  • Become a vegetarian and save the world.
  • Is organic food really healthier than non-organic?
  • McDonald’s opens a hipster cafe in Sydney.
  • Japan’s chip shortage has ended.
  • ‘Kenyans’ appetite for fried food and cheap frying oil is stalling the country’s urgent efforts to build a modern electrical grid’.
  • Community, not guerrilla, gardening. (Thanks, mum!)
  • Mrs Gorbachev gives Mrs Thatcher five hundred recipes for potatoes.
  • Suspended coffee.
  • 3D printed food.
  • How to translate a recipe: parts one and two.
  • Nut butters.
  • Food trends to end.
  • Pairing sake with western cuisines.
  • An anthropologist on food porn.
  • A restaurant offering discounts for prayers.
  • A guide to kitchen knives.
  • Cooking with weed.
  • Baking with vegetables.
  • Women’s growing enthusiasm for whisky.
  • The Eiffel Tower as a unit of measurement for cheese.
  • Shameeg Fagodien, Camps Bay ice cream seller.
  • The Wonder Bag.
  • Danny Bowien reopens Mission Chinese Food.
  • How to make marshmallow fluff.
  • How to make hard ginger beer.
  • How to make gin and tonic.
  • How to reheat pizza.
  • How to prevent freezer burn.
  • How to have a healthy hangover.
  • Eat more squirrel.
  • Adding air to food.
  • Tolstoy’s macaroni cheese.
  • Foraging on the Oregon coast.
  • Kant was wrong about food.
  • Authors drinking.
  • Veganuary.
  • Eating in restaurants in the US in the 1840s.
  • Best vegetarian recipe books.
  • Birch beer.
  • Christopher Hitchens on drinking.
  • Drink more Moldovan wine.
  • Scientific cures for hangovers.
  • Thomas Pynchon’s recipe for the first British pizza.

(Mostly) #ReadWomen2014

Earlier this year, the excellent Joanna Walsh inadvertently started a campaign to encourage wider and more extensive reading of women writers. What began life as New Year’s cards featuring a collection of women writers soon transformed into a Twitter hashtag—#ReadWomen2014—and then into book clubs, discussions, and a campaign which seeks, simply, to ‘create a little extra space … in which more women can be heard more loudly, both by women and men.’

Joanna Walsh's bookmarks for #ReadWomen2014. To order: They cost £10/$16/€13 for a sheet, including postage anywhere in the world. If you'd like more than one sheet, any number of subsequent sheets posted together cost £5/$8/€7 each.  To buy a set, go to Paypal, and send your payment to Please leave a message with your payment confirming the number of sheets you'd like, and the address you'd like them sent to.

Joanna Walsh’s bookmarks for #ReadWomen2014. To order:
They cost £10/$16/€13 for a sheet, including postage anywhere in the world. If you’d like more than one sheet, any number of subsequent sheets posted together cost £5/$8/€7 each.
To buy a set, go to Paypal, and send your payment to Please leave a message with your payment confirming the number of sheets you’d like, and the address you’d like them sent to.

I think, often, that the key to being happy as an academic is to realise how strange an occupation it is. In my case, it is doubly odd because I work in a research institute and have minimal teaching duties. I am paid to think, to write, to travel, and to read. I spend most of my time reading, and yet am constantly on the edge of panic that I’m not reading enough. Academia is a conversation with other writers. Everything is historiography. Not to read is intellectual failure.

But I need to read beyond work—mostly novels, memoirs, essays, and occasionally short stories. I read to feel the world more intensely; to feel myself in the world more intensely. I read to remind myself that what I feel is felt and shared—and has been felt and shared—by so many others. To some extent, to distinguish between academic and non-academic books is arbitrary. The most moving, thought provoking, and beautifully written book I’ve read this year was published by a university press. But for the sake of categories, and because I read fiction differently, here is a list of all of 2014’s non-academic books. I’ve not been particularly careful about only reading women writers this year, despite supporting Joanna’s campaign. And out of twenty books read and being read, twelve were by women. Reading two novels and a memoir by Michael Ondaatje—who, for some reason, I think would be a fan of #ReadWomen2014—rather increased things in favour of male writers.

I like this comment by Alexander Chee in his article about #ReadWomen2014:

I think women writers appealed to me because they acknowledged the struggles of women as well as those of men; as writers, they simply provided a fuller picture of the world.

I think so too. I think this is why I tend to reach, instinctively, for women writers.

Read in 2014: Anne Lamott, Bird by Bird; Bill Buford, Heat; Geoff Dyer, Jeff in Venice, Death in Varanasi; Anne Patchett, Bel Canto; Francesca Marciano, Casa Rossa; Monique Truong, The Book of Salt; Hannah Kent, Burial Rites; Michael Ondaatje, Running in the Family, In the Skin of a Lion, and The Cat’s Table; Robertson Davies, The Rebel Angels; Chimimanda Ngozi Adichie, Americanah; Michael Paterniti, The Telling Room; Joanna Rakoff, My Salinger Year; Jane Bowles, Two Serious Ladies; Rebecca Solnit, Men Explain Things to Me; Jane Smiley, The Greenlanders.

Can’t/won’t finish: Michel Houllebecq, Platform.

Still reading: Eleanor Catton, The Luminaries; Marilynn Robinson, Lila.

To read next: Karen Russell, Vampires in the Lemon Grove; Dana Goodyear, Anything That Moves; WG Sebald, The Emigrants, and Austerlitz.

Creative Commons License Tangerine and Cinnamon by Sarah Duff is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

Food Links, 24.12.2014

  • What will a new relationship mean for Cuban and American farmers?
  • Hunger rates are at an all time high in the US, Canada, and the UK.
  • California needs even more rain.
  • Disease is built into the food system.
  • ‘I hope that ultimately the glycemic index will be left on the shelf.’
  • ‘So the more you drink – up to two drinks a day for woman, and four for men – the less likely you are to die.’
  • Eating invasive species.
  • Wine is getting stronger.
  • One alternative to Big Beef.
  • The chip and mayonnaise protest.
  • Wholefoods may begin selling rabbit.
  • China discovers cheese.
  • Holy harvest.
  • Hazelnut, chip, and butter shortages.
  • Banana beer.
  • Some of Argentina’s best restaurants are illegal.
  • Make your own alfajores.
  • A global history of the turkey.
  • ‘he is concerned that Hollywood plans for a comedy about the heist could damage the maple syrup industry’s image. “While it’s nice to have a good laugh, at some point it gets too much.”‘
  • The best restaurants in the South.
  • The rise and rise of the mason jar.
  • The rise and rise of the turkey.
  • The salt tolerant potato.
  • George Orwell’s fruit loaf.
  • Why St John in London has been so successful.
  • Avocado crème brûlée.
  • Julia Child’s refusal to be ‘perfect’ on television.
  • Breakfast in Kurdistan.
  • Green grass refrigerator pickles. (Thanks, mum!)
  • How to slice tomatoes.
  • How to make sugar cookies.
  • Portraits of bees.
  • Couscous Hanukkah fritters.
  • ‘Thou shalt have fries with that. Onion rings can be substituted, if available. But, by no means consider salad an acceptable side, and don’t forget to ask the waitress for ketchup. Thou shalt not call it tomato-y goodness.’
  • How to prevent watery coleslaw.
  • Feasts in children’s books.
  • Gingerbread, 1836.
  • How roasting replaced boiling.
  • Salade Aphrodite.
  • Urban livestock in nineteenth-century New York.
  • Lady Bird Johnson’s Texas chilli.
  • Beef Fizz and Saucy Susans.
  • Chocolate Lego.
  • A truffle was sold for $61,250.
  • Food to eat around a campfire.
  • Vegan barbecue recipes.
  • Catching rats for Vietnamese farmers.
  • What to do with leftover coffee grounds.
  • Why does peppermint cool us down? And watch candy canes being made.
  • Should you make your own fondant?
  • Swiss wine.

Fugitive Knowledge

I never expected to receive an email from the Wayne County Airport Police. I had been so disoriented by the unpleasantness of immigration, crossing from Canada to the United States, that I’d dropped my travel notebook in Detroit airport. I’d only discovered its absence when unpacking in Ann Arbor and, as with most deep, unhappy losses, had only begun to realise how much I missed my small, black Moleskine diary a day or two later. But it was found, and a policewoman emailed to ask if it was mine. It arrived in a Fedex box six times its size within the week.

The diary would mean very little to anyone, I think. It contains addresses and phone numbers; lists of places to visit, things to buy, books to read, what to pack. It also includes recipes and descriptions of food I’ve eaten in Australia, Europe, Canada, and the US. It was these that I was particularly sorry to lose. In Kingston—a few days before arriving in Michigan—I’d written down the recipe for apple pie made by Elva McGaughey, my friend Jane’s mother, and an encyclopaedia of information on the home cooking of Ontario families.

That it was apple pie was significant. A week previously, Jane and Jennifer and Jennifer’s small son Stephen and I had picked apples in Québec’s Eastern Townships. We drove from Montréal, through bright green, softly rolling countryside. The sky was low and it drizzled. At the orchard, as Stephen snored gently in his sling, we filled deep paper bags with McIntosh and Cortland apples.


Several people pointed out to me that the saying should be, really, ‘as Canadian as apple pie’ because—in their view—the best pie is made with Macs, a popular variety developed by John McIntosh, who discovered these tart, crunchy apples on his farm in Ontario in 1811. The Mac now constitutes 28% of the Canadian apple crop, and two thirds of all the apples grown in New England. It is—as I discovered—excellent for eating straight off the tree, and cooks down into a slightly sour, thick mush in pie.

Today, the Mac is one of only a handful of apples grown commercially. Industrialised food chains demand hardy, uniform, easily grown varieties which can withstand long periods of storage and transport without going off or developing bruises. Until comparatively recently, there were thousands of apple varieties to choose from. Writing about the United States, Rowan Jacobsen explains:

By the 1800s, America possessed more varieties of apples than any other country in the world, each adapted to the local climate and needs. Some came ripe in July, some in November. Some could last six months in the root cellar. Some were best for baking or sauce, and many were too tannic to eat fresh but made exceptional hard cider, the default buzz of agrarian America.

Nomenclature of the Apple: A Catalogue of the Known Varieties Referred to in American Publications from 1804 to 1904 by the pomologist WH Ragan, lists 17,000 apple names. I wonder if a small part of the enthusiasm fueling the current rediscovery of old varieties—even neglected apple trees will continue bearing fruit for decades—is due to the multiple meanings we’ve attached to apples over many, many centuries. They feature prominently in classical and Norse mythology, where they are symbols of fertility, love, youth, and immortality, but also of discord. They are fruit with doubled meanings. The apple in fairytales represents both the victory of the evil stepmother, as well as the beginning of our heroine’s salvation: her prince will kiss her out of the coma induced by the poisoned apple. In her novel The Biographer’s Tale, AS Byatt represents the two wives—one in England, the other Turkish—of the bigamist Victorian explorer Sir Elmer Bole with green and red apples. The fruit in the Garden of Eden—since at least the first century CE described as an apple—bestowed both knowledge and banishment.

If the name McIntosh seemed oddly familiar, then it may be because of a now-ubiquitous Californian brand: the Apple Macintosh, launched in 1984, was named ‘Apple’ by Steve Jobs—apparently then on a fruitarian diet—and after the Mac apple, a favourite of one of the company’s top engineers. It is appropriate that these sophisticated machines which offer access to so much knowledge—licit, illicit, open, secret—should be named for apples.

In Berlin Childhood around 1900, Walter Benjamin describes being woken early—at half past six—on winter mornings before school. His nursemaid would light the fire in a small stove by his bed:

When it was ready, she would put an apple in the little oven to bake. Before long, the grating of the burner door was outlined in a red flickering on the floor. And it seemed, to my weariness, that this image was enough for one day. It was always so at this hour; only the voice of my nursemaid disturbed the solemnity with which the winter morning used to give me up into the keeping of the things in my room. The shutters were not yet open as I slid aside the bolt of the oven door for the first time, to examine the apple cooking inside. Sometimes, its aroma would scarcely have changed. And then I would wait patiently until I thought I could detect the fine bubbly fragrance that came from a deeper and more secretive cell of the winter’s day than even the fragrance of the fir tree on Christmas eve. There lay the apple, the dark, warm fruit that—familiar and yet transformed, like a good friend back from a journey—now awaited me. It was the journey through the dark land of the oven’s heat, from which it had extracted the aromas of all the things the day held in store for me. So it was not surprising that, whenever I warmed my hands on its shining cheeks, I would always hesitate to bite in. I sensed that the fugitive knowledge conveyed in its smell could all too easily escape me on the way to my tongue. That knowledge which sometimes was so heartening that it stayed to comfort me on my trek to school.

The baked apple—Proust’s madeleine for twenty-first-century theorists—both opens up Benjamin’s memories of childhood during a period of acute homesickness, but, as a child, it contained the ‘fugitive knowledge’ of what lay ahead. It could fortify—sustain—him on the journey to school, between the dark warmth of home and the noise and brightness of school.

Notebooks contain the same fugitive knowledge: they are both guides for future action, and repositories of information, memory, fact gathered over time and place. They travel in pockets and backpacks and book bags from Drawn and Quarterly, accruing meaning, emotional and intellectual. They belong to time present, as well as time future and past.

Creative Commons License Tangerine and Cinnamon by Sarah Duff is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

Food Links, 17.12.2014

  • Combating illegal fishing.
  • Jack Monroe on poverty.
  • Levels of mercury in fish have increased dramatically.
  • The mystery of the disappearing vitamins.
  • Explaining parabens.
  • The looming olive oil shortage.
  • Does Britain have a drinking problem?
  • Americans go wild for almonds.
  • Radical Mycology.
  • Foraging is not cool.
  • Shorter trees mean cheaper fruit.
  • Lab grown milk.
  • How not to respond to being accidentally overcharged at a restaurant.
  • Most vegetarians and vegans return to eating meat.
  • The bulletproof coffee diet.
  • The Maillard Reaction.
  • Slavery, sugar, and drinking in the thirteen colonies.
  • Nixon’s lunch on his last full day of office.
  • How to open a bottle of wine with a shoe.
  • How to wrap a loaf.
  • Producing cava in Catalonia.
  • Cheese and hats.
  • Puddings for picnics.
  • Savoury ice cream.
  • Eat more schmaltz.
  • An interview with Betty Fussell.
  • Best things eaten in 2014.
  • Moments of food revelation in film.
  • ‘”It’s not out of the question that someone at some point may have made a mould of some famous woman’s breasts and then used it for a glass,” she went on, “but I don’t think there’s anything to indicate that Marie Antoinette herself would have lent her breast for a vessel.”‘
  • Ancient Egyptian bread.
  • Lasse Hallström’s new movie misrepresents chefs.
  • Making cheese in goatskin.
  • The watermelon bagel.
  • How to drink absinthe.
  • The plio diet.
  • Eton mess cake.
  • Pork schnitzel and marital bliss.
  • A corner shop made out of felt.
  • Bodega cats.
  • The best bars in Buenos Aires.
  • New York’s first mustard sommelier.
  • Kosher and sustainable seafood?
  • Fluffy dinner balls.
  • Make better sugar cookies.
  • Make better latkes.
  • Make better tea.

A Pumpkin Spice too Far

I spent most of October and November in the United States and Canada, coinciding with Canadian Thanksgiving, Hallowe’en, and, probably most importantly, pumpkin spice season. This blend of cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves—the flavourings associated with pumpkin pie—has become comically ubiquitous in the US. Alongside pumpkin spice muffins, macaroons, and cupcakes, I saw pumpkin spice air freshener, rooibos tea, and beer. I tried pumpkin spice chips (inadvisable) and Icelandic yogurt (odd).

Too far, I think.

Too far, I think.

The pumpkin spice phenomenon originated in 2003, when Starbucks—then on the cusp of almost-global domination—debuted a new flavour for autumn. As reported last year to mark the drink’s ten-year anniversary, the company was hesitant to introduce the pumpkin spice latte. It already sold several flavoured coffees, but was not entirely sure that another seasonal drink would take off. They needn’t have worried. Forbes reports that in 2013 Starbucks had sold more than 200 million pumpkin spice lattes:

If you just do the math, that means Starbucks has sold an average 20 million beverages a year whose flavoring once belonged primarily in a seasonal pie…

At the basic price of about $4 for a 12-ounce tall size, PSL means at least $80 million in revenue … for Starbucks, which serves it beginning in September. … The company says the PSL is by far the most popular seasonal beverage in its lineup.

In fact, the pumpkin spice latte was held responsible for a bounce in the chain’s revenues this year. Outrages and fears over pumpkin spice shortages, and the annual dash for the first pumpkin spice latte of the season, are canny marketing strategies which have helped to position the drink—the #PSL on Twitter—alongside Starbucks’s red cups as a marker of the beginning of autumn and the holiday season. Unsurprisingly, other chains and supermarkets have begun to produce their own versions of the PSL.

Small, independent coffee shops—the alternatives to corporate caffeine—have also developed ways of cashing in on the pumpkin spice craze. I had a pumpkin pie flavoured latte at New Moon—an excellent café in Burlington, Vermont—and a lumberjack latte at Babo in Ann Arbor, Michigan. They were sweet and spicy: less coffee than coffee flavoured drinks.

I don’t think that the wild enthusiasm for pumpkin spice—as a flavouring—is particularly surprising. After all, in the US, Europe, and some other parts of the world, this combination of spices has long been a feature of winter or festive cooking and baking. A more interesting question is why Americans drink so much flavoured coffee. In the interests of research, I also tried vanilla, and brown sugar and sea salt flavoured coffees, and resolved never to waver from the true path of Americanos, flat whites, and the odd cappuccino. For all the fact that new technologies and techniques—drip, siphon, cold brew—have gained wild popularity for making coffee which tastes, apparently, more acutely and complicatedly of coffee, the popularity of flavoured coffees continues unabated.

It's decorative gourd season at the Ann Arbor farmers' market.

It’s decorative gourd season at the Ann Arbor farmers’ market.

America remains the largest coffee market in the world, with a third of consumers drinking ‘gourmet’ (or specially prepared) brews every day. To some extent, the ubiquity of coffee today is linked to a major fall in the price of the commodity twenty years ago. In 1962, John F. Kennedy shepherded the International Coffee Agreement into existence. Including mainly Latin American countries—the producers of superior Arabica coffee beans—the ICA controlled the price of coffee globally and was also intended to stabilise these countries’ economies, immunising them against potential Soviet influence. The ICA favoured the US and Brazil, giving both countries veto rights on policy decisions.

The collapse of the ICA, along with the Berlin Wall, in 1989 was produced both by shifting Cold War politics as well as by the emergence of new coffee producing countries—like Vietnam—which were not signatories to the Agreement. The fall in the price of coffee meant a coffee boom, particularly in the US where enthusiasm for Arabica had grown steadily over the course of the 1980s. It is no coincidence that you may have tried your first cappuccino—in the US and elsewhere—in the early 1990s. The growth of Starbucks—founded as a small independent in Seattle in 1981—traced the demise of the ICA and the fall in the international coffee price.

It is now easier than ever to buy extraordinarily good coffee for relatively little money. I wonder if this could account for the amazing variety of coffee based drinks available in the US. As a cheap beverage—as an affordable luxury, as Sidney Mintz describes the consumption of sugar in the nineteenth century—has coffee become unmoored from its position as a bitter drink to be had in small quantities at defined moments in the day, to a sweet, comforting snack to be consumed at any time?

Further Reading

Isaac A. Kamola, ‘Coffee and Genocide,’ Transition, no. 99 (2008), pp. 54-72.

Sidney W. Mintz, Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History (New York: Penguin, 1985).

Stefano Ponte, ‘Behind the Coffee Crisis,’ Economic and Political Weekly, vol. 36, no. 46/47 (Nov. 24-30, 2001), pp. 4410-4417.

Creative Commons License Tangerine and Cinnamon by Sarah Duff is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.